Day 216 of Firsts: Learn to Surf and Wipe Out!

3 Aug

 Feelings are much like waves, we can’t stop them from coming but we can choose which one to surf. ~Jonatan Mårtensson

I love the ocean. I rarely get in it past my knees, so learning to surf requires getting past some fears.

  Sharks! (There was an attack of a Pennsylvania woman just miles from here.)  Getting sucked under the waves! ( I was rolled around like I was in a washing machine when I was a kid.)

My 17 year old niece , Emily Cohen, and I decided we would do this First together.  We rented surf boards and convinced my nephew Ryan Houser to take us out in the waves off St. Augustine Beach and teach us to surf. 

 I got close to standing up as you’ll see but didn’t quite make it.  But I spent more time playing in the ocean that ever before.  Just a great time.  I didn’t worry about sharks or the waves, just trying to get up on the board.

But best of all, because Emily and I were out there trying, everyone else in the family decided to try to surf too.  We all took turns with our two rental boards. 

Such a great time, we’re all going to do it again tomorrow.  Hear the surfing is going to be good about 9am.  Emily and I will be there.


2 Responses to “Day 216 of Firsts: Learn to Surf and Wipe Out!”

  1. Diana August 4, 2010 at 5:09 pm #

    I have always wanted to learn how to surf!

    • oneyearoffirsts August 5, 2010 at 5:40 pm #

      Get out and do it. Recruit a friend. Buy a lesson…or just rent a board… i’m learning you have to power to change “always wanted” every day…

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